See Step 6 - Sketch Out Your Floor Plan
See Step 8 - Redraw Your Floor Plan
Dedicated to the Art, Science, and Passion of Renovating Extremely Run-Down Homes.
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| The Cottage - Back corner before |
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| The Cottage - Back corner after. |
| The Bungalow - Before |
| Some fascia work is complete, but still a long way to go. |
| Exterior trim & siding work were on hold until Step 14 was done. |
| The Bungalow - After |
On one hand, getting permission from the man to work on your own home may feel downright un-American. I get it. However, if this is where you are at, try to think about it another way; you may not need the oversight, but maybe others do. In America, we’re all equal, so permitting by the government of and for the people is just part of the adventure. Bottom line though, it’s in everyone’s best interest, yours included, to have building officials who issue permits. Afterall, you want someone to make sure the DIYer next door isn’t going to rehab a home that catches fire and takes yours down with it, right? And don’t you want a lookout to prevent the person across the street from creating an eyesore that you have to look at or that’ll lower your property values? There are other reasons, but you see my point.
The first and most significant thing to keep in mind regarding the permitting process is that every building department is different. The only thing I’ve found that’s the same, regardless of the town or city, is that most building officials firmly believe that the way they do it is the way everyone does it… that their rules are the standard.
The initial steps I've described don’t require permission from local authorities. However, when you start demoing walls and addressing the bigger issues, there's a good chance you'll need a permit. I'd love to write down everything you’ll need to know about permitting, inspections, and code compliance, but all of this varies from place to place. I've worked in too many municipalities to count, and they're all different. In addition, it's common for them to make adjustments on how they do things periodically, so I try to be prepared for anything when I walk into a building department.
In some places, you'll have complete freedom to do whatever you want to your property without any outside involvement from others. However, some cities, towns, and counties will require that you provide them some details of your plans and pay a small fee before you receive a postable sign. Some building officials may ask for drawings, while others will be satisfied with a written description. One village or city may require that you hire a licensed General Contractor to do the work, supervise, or manage your project, while other towns might be okay with you acting as your own GC… as long as your name is on the deed.
Furthermore, there are some municipalities that will expect a you to make the house your home when you're finished and might even require you to sign a document pledging to live there as a resident for a stipulated time period once you’re all done. Basically, the local folks don’t want you to slap lipstick on your pig’s ear and drywall over shoddy work before you flip it and then high tail out of town, leaving your poor buyer with a house full of sub-par work. I know you wouldn’t do this, but someone else has, so rules have been put in place. If you have to live there for a while after you’re finished, they’re speculating that you’ll do a better job. Again, hiring a general contractor to oversee or do the work may be a viable way to get in and flip it.
When I'm navigating my way through the
rocky permitting and inspection waters, my mission is to receive my Certificate
of Occupancy at the end of the project. However, to reinforce my point on
the randomness of this process even further, not all towns or
local authorities issue a C.O. after the final inspection is passed. The bottom
line here: when you go to get your permit, be ready for anything, and don't be
surprised if you're faced with someone on the other side of the counter saying,
"This is how it's done" as if there's no other way. Trust me, this
attitude is common. I've grown to understand that when this happens, the clear
reality is: That’s just how it's done there.
And finally, pull a permit for the improvements
you know you're going to make, rather than things you might do.
If you’re positive you need to replace some drywall, paint inside and out, and
you'll also be popping in replacement windows, then get official permission for
those things. Don't muddy the waters by mentioning the possibility of
skylights, a hot tub, or other dreamy blips on your rehab radar. Just keep
it simple, and when you're rock solid on additional scopes of work, you can circle
back to get the bureaucratic green light at a later date.
| Tools needed to remove WMJs. (Brick Hammer is shown, but any hammer to pop down on your chisel will do.) |
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| Day 1 - There's not much to salvage here. Yet in Step 8, I'm focused on the pots, dishes, and things in the cabinets. Cabinets, counters, and the old stove will get removed during the demo phase. |
If something is left behind by the
previous owners, you can't use it, and no one you know wants it, then be ready
to send it on its way. Step 8 goes hand-in-glove with Step 7: Shifting into Salvage Mode.
I've learned some lessons over the years that will save
time, money, and some heavy lifting. You can apply what I wrote in Step 7
to the left behind belongings, but what about a refrigerator or other large
appliance ready for retirement? When I first started, online websites to
sell or give stuff away was still to come in the future. However, now this
is a solid first option. Consider posting an ad, and maybe someone will come
take your appliance away... even if it doesn't work. If you aren’t able to make
a cyber connection, you might be able to push, pull, and drag your appliance out
to the curb, where someone in the salvage business will likely snatch it up. You
can always haul it away yourself, or even wrestle it into a dumpster, but those
options suck up time and cost you money… and may even lead to an ER visit if
you hurt yourself. Make every effort to keep it simple, economical, and safe.
And be resourceful.
Apply this type of thinking to the other left-behinds. If
you place scrap metal or aluminum out next to the street, it'll walk away on
its own. Side hustle salvagers will be glad you didn't put it in the dumpster,
and these scavengers will happily haul it away for you. Same with other things
that may hold little value but are too good to toss into your rented metal
trash box.
Donating stuff is also better than adding it to the dumpster
because you need that space for serious rubbish and your heavy, dirty construction
debris. In the end, you pay by the ton when the dumpster folks pick up their
loaded container. You need to save your cash every place you can, so don't pay
anyone to take it away if you can get it off your property easier and for less
of your budget money. Step 8 is a great place to begin thinking about
the squeeze on your project budget as part of the game of
renovating a pig's ear.
Rules, laws, and town ordinances vary by area. In some
places, construction or renovation debris out at the street is fine, but in
other places, it can become an issue. Sometimes you’ll be able to ask for
permission, while in other circumstances, it might end up being more practical just
to beg for forgiveness. Overall, be aware and make the most of the situation
you find yourself in, case by case. Ask neighbors, make phone calls, or surf
the city web page for answers or clues about what you can and shouldn’t do.
There's a good chance the local sanitation crew will make
your streetside deposits disappear if nobody else wants them. Make an effort to
place your discards where the trash is picked up, and the odds are in your
favor that someone will deal with it when you're not looking. If you're paying
for sanitation services as a taxpayer or as part of a utility bill, you might
as well get your money's worth and let someone else haul off your unusables
when possible. It may only be a few dollars, but that money adds up over the
course of a long renovation, and you'll want those dollars at the end of the
job for the finishing touches.
Also, keep in mind that neighbors can be finicky about
newcomers littering the public-right-of-way with junk. If the real estate
market is hot, they lean toward being more contentious and uppity. If the
market is cool, they'll be glad you're investing in the neighborhood and
helping their property values. In my experience, most will realize it's a
win-win scenario and cheer you on rather than gripe over evidence of your
progress. But don’t be caught off guard by someone in the neighborhood being a squeaky
wheel.
Finally, Step 8 is when I pull out the carpet. Certainly, my favorite part of the clean-up phase. Carpet traps moisture
and stank in the house. You'll want both of those gone as soon
as possible. In addition, you will also want to know what's under any floor
coverings. Redeemable hard wood flooring or tile? Subflooring that's
deteriorated? If you know the carpet is going, get it gone sooner rather than
later.
| The Fire House Den before I started with light pouring in the charred hole in the roof. Comparable to the corner of the kitchen above, this needed removed ASAP. |
| After the Clean Up. It looks better. Plus, coming in the project and seeing this, felt like major progress. |
| After the Renovation. This is the same view. It's the same fireplace and same salvaged wood floor that still has some char marks that help tell the story of the catastrophic fire. |
After you get the keys and make the home secure,
you need to get busy emptying it out so it’s wide open, ready for you to spread
your rehab wings and fly.
Circumstances may allow others to skip this step, but my pig’s ears have all come with more than their share of left behind stuff. It’s been the rule rather than the exception to find clothes in the closets, dishes in the cabinets, and helpful things in the junk drawer.
This is when you should call for a dumpster delivery or come up with some other way of hauling trash away. You don't need to spend time on unusable things more than just once. As a rule, I always find out what I have in the house before I let any contractors inside, because I don't want everything to be thrown out. The things I usually save from the dumpster fall into one of two categories: sellables and useables.
Sellables are anything valuable that folks would like to buy if they
know you have it and are willing to sell it. Sometimes I turn these
treasures into cash, selling them online or to people who will resell them in a
shop or store. But I’ve also saved some interesting finds like special books, sports
collectibles, fun chotchkes. And I always pocket any marbles I find—on last
count, my cache came to over five hundred.
One of my favorite salvaged items is a vintage
milk bottle. I was a toddler in the Midwest when the milkman was becoming
a thing of the past. Yet I still remember Mom going to the metal box outside
our front door and pulling out the cow juice. Not only can I tell the kids
about this pre-school memory; I can show them an example of how the milk used
to be delivered to our porch. What makes my quart container even more
special is that it still bares the label of the dairy farm once located in the
town where my wife was born.
Next are the usables; things you
suspect will be able to help you in the renovation. These are left-behinds like
tools, pieces of hardware, miscellaneous materials, and anything else that
might serve some purpose during the project. Think along the lines of Tom Hanks
in Cast Away. Remember how his character kept those ice
skates? He didn’t save them for figure skating, but just in case…
which ended up having important uses; a tool to open coconuts and also pop out
his abscessed tooth. It's simply practical to hold on to your usables.
Moving something throughout the rehab may still
be better for the budget and schedule than driving to the store to replace
a usable that you casually threw away. Gas is expensive, and
you can take this from me; your time and money will be better spent if you make
the most of anything valuable that’s been left behind. However, if you
find yourself moving something a lot, something you’re not using, take
that as a sign that you probably aren’t going to need it, and get it out of
there.
After I take ownership, I'm mindful of the need to make the house and any outbuildings secure. Adventurous kids and hormonal adolescents are no longer free to enter. Plus, I’d prefer that curious folks from the neighborhood only see the inside when I’m around to lead the tour.
Step 5 is when I install my own locks and make
sure that doors shut completely. I also board up any broken windows and
brace them so they can’t be pushed open easily from outside. It’s similar with
any sliding exterior doors. It doesn’t take much to beef things up with a
board, broom handle, or something else substantial to keep folks out.
Besides people, I want to keep animals from coming inside as well. I’ll admit that it’s hard to keep snakes out, and I don’t mind having the tiny lizards on site. At this stage, I’m most concerned with bigger animals: stray cats, racoons, and possums. I've had more than a few animals wander thru, seeming just as curious as the people in the neighborhood, and I don’t want four-legged critters entering if I can keep them out.
I realize that animals are clever and smart. They seem to know and remember where they can go to rest and get a break from harsh weather. We’d likely be the same if we lived in the wild. Once, I disregarded one opening because I thought it was insignificant: the hole for the dryer vent. Somewhere near midnight, a baby bobcat came in, and it didn’t want to leave. Looking back, the fury little thing was probably just lost and sacred. I was tired and had to go to work in a few hours, so I went back to bed and let this cat make itself at hme—at eighteen hundred square feet, there was plenty of room for both of us. However, the animal quickly curled up in a ball at the foot of my bed until morning. At daylight, while I was waiting for my first cup of coffee to brew, it came out to look around. I opened the front door, and it went on its way, likely to the woods at the end of the block. Since this was back in 2000, I didn’t have a cell phone to document this special visit, and official ID from a wildlife professional was not exactly an option. It was a husky cat with a stubby tail, and I still to this day think it was a Carolina bobcat. Although I especially enjoyed the late-night visit from that critter, there were other animals that I knew I needed to keep out, so I sealed up the hole before dark.
Make
your new project house secure and seal up all the openings, including the ones
that you may write off as insignificant.
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| My late-night visitor looked like this fur ball. |
| Before - The roof leaked badly and the place was jammed full of junk. |
| During - It was a great little project... like working inside even though I was outside. |
| After - I made good use of this 500+ sqft. area from the beginning of the project to the end. |